From Moonshine to Sunshine: 6/28: Vatican Rumors True: The Pope DOES wear a funny hat.

We'd planned to see the Vatican today, but trusted Franco's advice to wait until early afternoon for the lines to thin and the tour guides to clear out. This left us with a chunk in our day to fill.

After a great communal breakfast of pastries, meats, cheeses, fruits, juices and choice of coffees, we set out toward the Chiesa di San Ignazio di Loyola (where we got booted yesterday) to have a longer visit and inspect the painted dome. It was an amazing example of perspective!

Above: View on approach.

The tale as we read it was that the church lacked the funding to build the dome into a cupola, or to have one added later, so a plan was devised to have the dome painted in a way that LOOKED like it had a cupola, windows and all. It was truly impressive.

Above: View directly beneath.

From the church, we walked past the Pantheon, then into the Piazza Navona. It had three cool fountains and a relaxed but lively atmosphere, hemmed in as it was by blocks of buildings and cafés.

Continuing on, we crossed the Tiber River at the Ponte Sant'Angelo, with picturesque angel sculptures lining it on the way to the Castel Sant'Angelo.

Originally designed as a mausoleum for emperor Hadrian and his family, it was later turned into a Catholic fort/castle, hence the name. We admired the mausoleum-turned-castle, then ate an awesome riverside lunch from a street-vendor café: spicy salami and ricotta with lettuce on...foccaccia, maybe?

Above: The mausoleum/fort/castle/museum

After getting rested and rehydrated, we steered ourselves toward Vatican City. The size of St. Peter's Basilica was astounding even from half a mile away.

We found our spot at the end of the line for the Vatican Museums, which WAS considerably shorter than we feared it might be(thanks, Franco). Nevertheless, the mid-day sun was beaming directly down on us in line, and the rare hint of breeze wasn't much help, so I shortly got light-headed and dizzy.

We had fortunately brought water with us, which we rationed between ourselves, but I still cursed at least twice (at least I wasn't IN the Vatican!) before we made it close enough to the entrance to feel optimistic that we'd get into shade and comfort before the museums closed for the day.

In case anyone's wondering, it took almost one hour exactly to gain access to what can best be described as a madhouse. There was barely a semblance of order to the chaos of lines and bodies. We paid our 30€ (What does the Catholic Church DO with all that money?!) to basically get herded through rooms with priceless sculptures, paintings, tapestries and antiques.

We barely got to see them or pause long enough to snap a picture before the swarm overwhelmed us again. Tour guides were of no help, clogging all hallways with their groups. The museum aficionado that my father and uncle had raised me to be was disgusted by how little we were able to admire and appreciate in the boundless museums.

Above: The Laocoön Group. I was the only one of hundreds who noticed.

Some tourists were obviously just paying their 15€ to beeline directly to the Sistine Chapel, but they only encouraged the collective rush and panic of the crowds to go, go, go. We definitely felt like cattle in paddocks.

We remember seeing long hallways with frescoed ceilings and ornate gold leaf woodwork, then rooms with more frescoes--many by Raphael. If I hadn't been snapping photos whenever possible, I don't think either of us would remember much more than the crowds and hallways.

On our way to the Sistine Chapel, we were led through contemporary art galleries(We saw a Van Gogh and 3 Dali paintings), which I found to be an interesting juxtaposition.

Van Gogh's Pietà

Once inside the famous Sistine Chapel, where you were forbidden from talking loudly or taking photos, the first things you noticed were loud crowds and dozens of people disobeying the No Photos rule. These people sucked. They nearly ruined the experience for us, because the museum guards were constantly shouting (the irony!) at people to be quiet and put away their cameras.

But my word, it was beautiful. Michelangelo's Genesis on the ceiling was more paneled and intricate than we expected, with his mural of the Last Judgement mesmerizing us from the altar wall. The sides of the chapel had fresco scenes from the lives of Moses and Christ.

The Last Judgement, photo courtesy Wikipedia

We gazed for a long time, forcing ourselves to ignore everyone around us. When we left, it was with a bittersweet feeling--not disappointed with what we saw, but with what we experienced. It was a herded spectacle that took away from what was supposed to be a respectful and inspiring sight. We lamented the probability that in the future, the Sistine Chapel may become unavailable to visitors because of their disrespect for the rules. Then again, for 15€ a pop, perhaps the Catholic Church can endure the tide of tourism.

Speaking of, after departing the Chapel we were forced to pass through or by no less than five kiosks or gift shops hawking Christian merchandise. Holy capitalism.

We refilled our water bottles outside St. Peter's Square, then entered the Basilica. The first feature I sought was Michelangelo's Pietà, which should have been just to the right of our entry. I was extremely disappointed to see that it was cordoned off from view.

Instead, here's a photo of us looking sweaty.

The cathedral itself, though, was amazing--and huge. There were high, vaulted ceilings with several domes and cupolas, ornate marble, wood, or stone carvings and gold leaf on everything. The main altar was highly ornate, with the tremendous, bronze baldachin of Bernini towering over it.

We did not go into the museum, and we couldn't go up to the Dome of the Basilica because it was closed, so I seized an opportunity as we were exiting to try and glimpse the Pietà. I saw a security guard part the curtain to leave that area, so when no one was watching I reached across the velvet rope and parted the curtain just long enough to get a blurry photo and glimpse of the gorgeous sculpture from maybe 40 feet away.

I am proud to say that was the only time I broke the rules on holy ground.

We walked out directly through St. Peter's Square, marveling again at its immensity. Annie didn't know that the square easily filled up with the faithful on important holidays or public addresses from the Pope. It must be amazing to witness.

TOTAL VATICAN TRIP: 2:30pm~6:45pm

We walked north along the Tiber, then crossed a bridge to see the Ara Pacis and Mausoleum of Augustus. Ara Pacis was closed, and also housed in a horrible modern-looking building that made it look like, at best, an art gallery.

The Mausoleum was roped off and appeared to be still under excavation. I don't know nor have I read much about the site, but I'm curious to hear what's been found by archaeologists.

Meandering back through town, we passed the Spanish steps again, then had dinner near Piazza Barberini. Tortellini for Annie, spaghetti bolognese for me, and we split a plate of chicken. With water and a beer, 35€.