6/7: Life's a Beach...au natural

Alas, the morning of our move from Villa Ambrosia had arrived. Rumi brought us breakfast and arranged for our donkey taxi, and once Annie got moving we sought our new accommodations. The three places owned by Tony are within maybe twenty yards of each other, but they are each on a different level of stairs. The Falling Stars house was highest up near the main drag in Oia, and we were able to hear the foot traffic fairly clearly there. Villa Ambrosia was most private, being a cave house, but also because the path to its terrace and door only led past to other accommodations, not restaurants or picturesque views.

Our new digs at the Venetian Suite were located between the Falling Stars and Villa Ambrosia. With high, vaulted ceilings, hardwood floors, and a comfy looking canopy bed, we once again had no problem switching rooms.

ABOVE: What a hovel.

Annie has raved about Tony's taste in decor at every suite we've seen, and the Venetian was no exception. Tasteful paintings--both a mix of local color and antique looking portraits--dotted the walls, and antique wood furniture helped accent the room(you can tell I'm old for using a word like "accent" from the Home & Gardening network).

What Annie would soon rave MOST about, however, were the bathrooms. Large tubs with faucet water pressure, and high-strength toilets that actually flush well are a luxury on Santorini. Ahhh, the little things in life.

ABOVE: Yes, I posted a photo of a bathroom.

After getting our luggage situated, we caked on the sunscreen and decided to go exploring. Our plan was to locate the closest beach to Oia, called Kathares. It was described to us as a small, private beach just north of the village. Fortunately, unlike many landmarks and sights on the island there were two signs along the streets directing us the right way. We eventually left the road for a narrow dirt/gravel path leading the rest of the way to water's edge.

The beach was maybe 20 minutes' walk from our room, and obviously downhill the whole way. It was a unique exposure to the first legitimate beach we'd seen on the island: no sand could be found anywhere. It was also a unique "exposure" for Annie, who apparently had never encountered nude sunbathers before!

Sadly, I was not allowed to join them.

When we set out our towels, we noticed a woman near us remove her top, PUT ON A SWIM CAP, then ease her way into the waves. Farther down, we saw a full moon at high noon--some dude and his wife were buck naked enjoying the rays.

ABOVE: You can tell we kept our distance.

Annie and I both expressed concern for sunburn in parts tender and obscure, but we figured two consenting adults knew what was best for themselves. Sadly for Annie, I was the most attractive man on the beach, which indicates the low quality of nude-people-watching to be had.

After an afternoon swim and continued roasting on the volcanic rock beach, we went for a walk (after the naked people left) around the cliffs to see how far the beach stretched. We went a long ways, but could see no end to the rocky coast--though its navigability by foot became more precarious.

We returned to the path, and began our familiar ascent back to Oia. After showering, we tried a nearby restaurant called Lotza, where I got busted by the waiter for acting like I could speak Greek. Annie wanted me to point this out, because she thinks it's hilarious when I say a few phrases I know, then am expected to understand the response. This time, when I sheepishly replied "You got me. That's all I know," the waiter laughed and shook my hand. Silly foreigners, I'm sure he thought.

We ate bread, salad, and spinakopita for appetizers, then split a fried whitefish for the main course. Delicious. We enjoyed it all while overlooking the caldera from the restaurant's balcony view, at one point seeing a crowd of tourists gathered below to catch photos of a local dog posing next to a church dome. The animals here...I swear they TRY to outdo each other on death-defying cuteness.

ABOVE: Canine gawking.

After dinner, we returned home and I cracked open a couple Jack Daniel's mini-bottles my wonderful mother-in-law packed on my behalf. I spent some time browsing the variety of European travel sights, and successfully booked our tickets from Athens to Rome for June 27. It felt weird planning a country hop while still thoroughly enjoying the fruits of our present one, but I know that Annie and I will relish every opportunity to drink life to the lees with our remaining time.

Santorini Day 6 (June 7) Album:

Santorini: June 7, 2011

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Location:Νικολάου Νομικού,Oia,Greece