Saturday, June 4, 2011

6/3: Diving for Beauty at Ammoudi Bay

Our first morning in Santorini was beautiful, though Annie slept through most of it due to the jet lag. Seven hours' time difference makes sleeping difficult the first few nights--unless you have a cold like me, and, thus, Nyquil-induced drowsiness. Tony's trusty chef/housekeeper/hostess Rumi(sp?) brought us our breakfast at 9am: coffee, fresh orange juice, croissants with butter and jam, and Greek yogurt with bran flakes. Delicious.

I enjoyed my coffee on the balcony while Annie drowsed. Tourists were already scampering along pathways and rooftops to get their shots of the idyllic domes and caldera views, but I enjoyed my private respite from activity on our porch. It's easy to fall in love with life here: the mood is jovial, the living is easy, and the sights are incomparable.

After Annie awoke and dined, we lathered on the sunscreen and packed for the day. Our plan was to swim, skin-dive, and sun bathe at the Ammoudi swim area near the Agios Nikolaos chapel. We packed Annie's snorkels and masks, grabbed some crackers and water for lunch, then set out for the steep step descent.


ABOVE: The winding switchbacks of the Ammoudi Steps.

The area was great. Here on the caldera side of the island there's nothing remotely similar to a beach, but we found a mostly flat outcropping of rock with some large boulders to lay on and a couple easy entrances into the water. When the laying out got too hot, we donned our snorkels and braved the cold waters of the Aegean. The water was beautiful, with visibility of 40-50 feet, we'd estimate. We swam the perimeter of the island housing Agios Nikolaos, but saved our exploration of that and the cliff diving from its patio for another day. This was my first experience snorkeling in open water, so I was mesmerized. Add to that my first opportunity with a waterproof camera ( thanks, sister!), and I was hooked.



We saw some interesting shells in the shallows around the island, and Annie skin-dived for several of them. I tried once but my right ear was still affected by the flight and my cold, so I wussed out until I found shallower depths (<10 ft). Annie is a complete water rat; the water was so cold that she swam with her arms hugging herself for warmth, but didn't complain once. I only complained after she kicked me in the face on our way back to shore. An accident, right? This Greek nose is hard to avoid.


As late afternoon passed, we dried off and ate our crackers before scaling the steps back to Oia once more. I stoically replied "Oxi, eucharisto"(no thanks) to the mule drivers offering easy rides to the top, and wondered if they respected or disdained us for taking the self-powered option.

Twenty minutes and a couple rests later, we were back at home to shower off before our next dinner adventure. Our lodging owner Tony also runs a restaurant within a stone's throw of the Sea Captain's House called Nectar and Ambrosia, so we planned on dining there after scoping out the island faithful watching sunset from the town's paths and ramparts.



Tony directed his staff to seat us closest to the caldera since we were his guests, and we enjoyed a couple beers as they prepared our dinner. Annie tried a tasty pumpkin ravioli while I opted for the chicken souvlaki(skewers...kabobs, basically). It was another great meal, though not as fresh as our waterside seafood the previous evening--which is hard to beat!




After dinner we walked the main path through Oia heading south, enjoying the sights and sounds of restaurants, jewelry stores, and art galleries lining the path. I bought a Mythos beer for a nightcap, enjoying it on the way home in a fashion I wish America would adopt. Only in New Orleans, I guess. Lucky Cajuns.

We sat for a time on our balcony, enjoying the cool air and quiet murmur of Oia on our last night at the Falling Stars house before bedding down until morning. Calinihta!

Santorini Day 2 (June 3) Album:
Santorini: June 3, 2011

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Location:Νικολάου Νομικού,Oia,Greece

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