From Moonshine to Sunshine: 6/29: A Colosseo Adventure

Over breakfast we tried to do some Florence planning. We were headed there in two days and had not secured a place to stay yet, so doing so was a priority. Once comfortable enough with our research and inquiries to set out for the day, we left for the one definite goal of hitting the Colosseum.

We walked down Via del Corso to the enormous Monumento a Vittorio Emanuele II, which we read had to level important areas of town (like Michelangelo's house) in order to be built.

It was quite large, unnecessarily so, though at the base of the upper edifice were two Roman guards flanking their country's Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. At least that wasn't a display of opulence and self reverence.

We next passed Trajan's Column, his Forum, and his Market...or what was left of it. The column was pretty interesting, but the rest of it seemed almost entirely ruined.

Moving on, we walked down the peaceful Via dei Fori Imperiali, seeing the Colosseum in the distance, but we turned into the Roman Forum to get our tix for the three venues(Forum, Colosseum, & Palatine Hill) there, because Franco had warned us of long lines at the Colosseum.

ABOVE: Colosseum in WAY background.

Since we were already there, we decided to explore what was left of the Roman Forum. The truth? Not much. A couple arches, some piled rocks, a spot that may have been where Caesar was killed. The site seemed to be hosting a few exhibits on emperor Nero, as we found them scattered throughout the grounds during our aimless wanderings through the ruins.

After a water break, we climbed Palatine Hill to try out its views of Rome. Frankly, after we'd seen what the skyline from the higher Pincio Hill had to offer, this was an unimpressive view by comparison.

Exiting the Forum/Palatine area, we moseyed on down toward the Colosseum, which was really impressive from the outside. We stopped for a panini in the shade, and watched gypsies evading the police while we ate. Those dudes could have fifteen fake purses laid out on a blanket one minute, but be a block away with their merchandise over one shoulder ten seconds later.

After eating, we entered Il Colosseo. It was originally three levels(not counting the basement/locker room underground where gladiators and animals were kept), though a fourth was later added. Presently, only half of the 4th level remains, and only the first and second levels were accessible to tourists--though I later heard that you could schedule tours of the basement level.

An individual might easily find the Colosseum unremarkable because of how similar it is to contemporary stadiums, but the fact that should be regarded is how modern stadiums owe nearly every aspect of their design to this ancient structure.

On one end of the stadium stood a brass cross, which I had heard was meant to commemorate the blood of Christian martyrs shed in the arena, though that claim has since been disputed. On one guidepost, we read that the Pope used to tour the circumference of the Colosseum on Good Friday, and the crucifix is meant to commemorate that tradition too.

After departing the Colosseum, we cut northeast briefly to see the Church of San Piedro in Vincoli, or St. Peter in Chains. Inside were three sculptures by Michelangelo: Rachel and Leah--the two wives of Jacob in the Bible--flanking the central figure of Moses.

Michelangelo portrayed Moses at the moment following his reception of the Ten Commandments when he looks upon the Israelites worshipping the golden calf. A guide book stated that he's depicted with small horns due to a misinterpretation of the text. If you can get over that pretty glaring anatomical oversight, this was another amazing sculpture by the Florentine.

Of additional note inside is the relic that gives the church its namesake. Beneath the main altar, behind plexiglass, rest the chains that allegedly bound St. Peter during his Roman imprisonment. They didn't look as old and rudimentary as we expected, but it was still impressive to look upon the chains that once bound the man who now blocks our entry to Heaven.

ABOVE: More impressive than Alice in Chains.

We turned back south past the Colosseum and giant Arch of Constantine, then cut up past the ruined Circus Maximus to see the church of Saint Maria in Cosmedin, with its famous "Bocca Della Verità," or "Mouth of Truth." The church was closed, but the mouth sculpture was visible through the iron grate.

Legend has it that the mouth will bite off your hand if you reach in and lie.

We hit the river and followed it north to Ponte Fabricio, then crossed the tiny island Isola in the Tiber River, on into Trastavere.

This region was apparently ignored by the majority of Roman citizens for decades, leaving it small and quaint, before it arbitrarily got "discovered" in the 80s (I think) and it became hip to visit. We explored some of the quiet and cozy streets, stumbling on what appeared to be a house that once belonged to the famous poet Dante...

...then stopped to eat somewhere inexpensive. We ordered a Bruschetta appetizer, Annie had pesto gnocchi, and I had gnocchi with mussels and clams(& beer). Pretty good!

Pressing westward, we found the church of Santa Maria in Trastavere, which was holding Wednesday mass. It is one of Rome's oldest churches dedicated to Mary, and it looks it.

We cut north to the Piazza Trilussa, then crossed Ponte Sisto back to the eastern side of the Tiber. Sunset was just getting into swing, and from the bridge it looked lovely with St. Peter's on the far horizon.

ABOVE: My gorgeous and photogenic wife.

At this point, we went piazza-hopping: Piazza Farnese, Campo dè Fiori, Piazza Pantaleo, Piazza Navone(again).

We navigated our way through the maze of streets to a gelateria called Giolitti, which had been recommended to us by Franco as one of the oldest gelato vendors in Rome. It was an experience unparalleled in America. We felt warped back to the early/mid 20th century, where the gelato vendors wore fancy clothes and a simple dessert shop could be decorated and staffed like a 5-star restaurant.