Though it was located in an Oia back alley, the museum was easy to spot by the rusty cannon and anchor out front. For 3€ apiece, we basically had the modest building to ourselves. Other tourists must generally forgo it for the more photogenic sights of the island, which is a shame.
ABOVE: An anchor and cannon, chillin'.
The first room of the museum is comprised of antique paintings of ships, sailors' knots, naval flags, pulleys and tackle. In the back was a large bellows and some rusty deckhand instruments that made us grateful for being 21st century land lubbers.
ABOVE: Nautical stuff.
We almost missed the creepy mannequin heads on our way upstairs. The items on display were various sailors' hats from the years, but the eye-patched and Hitler-mustachioed mannequin heads stole the show on those shelves.
ABOVE: The stuff of nightmares.
The main room upstairs was a very intriguing sight. Antique rudders and tillers dotted the first wall, with several maidenheads bolted across the other walls. Some of them were ornate, some heavily sea worn, and others lewd.
ABOVE: Janet Jackson took a lesson on wardrobe malfunction from this fair maiden.
The two side rooms contained primarily documents and photos, with one large display case of antique nautical instruments. Compasses, sextants, and spyglasses...can you imagine navigating your way across the street with such instruments, much less the open, unruly ocean?
ABOVE: Especially dressed like this heartthrob...
The photos adorning one of the rooms were entertaining and benign: B&W shots of old fishermen("cute!" says Annie) and heavily mustachioed sailors amused us, while photos of early-mid 20th century Oia amazed us at how different the landscape looked before the 1956 earthquake that rendered most of the island uninhabitable for years. I think I read that it was 7.8 on the Richter scale.
ABOVE: Pre-earthquake Oia.
After whetting our historical appetite, we decided to explore our surrounding environs. We walked to the outskirts of Oia and found a travel agency to discuss a tentative Scuba excursion, then we ventured towards the smaller village of Finikia nearby.
We were hoping to stumble across a woman recommended by our host Tony. Annie and I really loved some of the marine and religious paintings in our rooms done on what looks like scavenged driftwood. There are tons of cheap-looking replicas at the boutiques in Oia, but we wanted the real thing, despite not having called the painter or bringing her card with us that had a helpful little map on it.
Figuring Finikia to be a one-donkey town, we hoped to spot the woman's studio from the walking path. An hour of frustration and dehydration later, the only thing we found was an occasional door for me to photograph. Lame subject matter, perhaps, but I wish American doors had half the personality of doors over here.
ABOVE: A door. With character.
I digress. We left Finikia defeated, bought and gulped a large bottle of water, then returned to Oia. Changing into our swimsuits, we sought the tranquil waters of the Lioyerma cliffside pool and café. Annie tasted her first Nescafe frappé (THE most common beverage of Greece morning, noon, and night), and we relaxed until late afternoon.
After a spinakopita (spinach pie) and some beer from a local bakery, we got cleaned up to venture towards the sunset. We'd watched it from Ammoudi Bay on our first night, but had opted for a quiet dinner the second and mom-Skyping the third so hadn't yet viewed the full sunset from atop Oia.
It didn't disappoint! We met a French couple on our chosen rooftop (we trespassed; sue me) with a cute son named Noe, pronounced "Noo-ee", who enjoyed making out with a puppy that took a shine to him. The animals of Santorini are disgustingly cute and photogenic; in fact, there are "Island Kitties" calendars for sale in the kitschy shops. No, we won't buy y'all any.
After another great dinner (bread w/ olive tapenade, grilled octopus w/ caramelized onion, and pastitsio: 31€), this time at Papagalos Restaurant, we returned home to digest and plan new adventures. There's no shortage of them around here, as long as you've got the time and desire.
Santorini Day 4 (June 5) Album:
Santorini: June 5, 2011 |
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Location:Νικολάου Νομικού,Oia,Greece
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