We drove to the island capital(30-40 minutes' drive) and sought out a waterside café for some coffee to start our day. In Greece, "coffee" is usually made from Nescafe, so if you want traditional American coffee, you need to ask for "filter coffee." Usually your coffee arrives looking and tasting like what you'd expect, or it arrives in a French press that you prepare and pour yourself.
At THIS particular café, our "filter coffee" was exactly that: a mug, a filter that fit over the mug's mouth, and a separate cup of hot water. This would not have been a problem if the filters worked, but they hardly allowed the water through. After his mess of standing water and taste of meager brown water, Wayne gave up and ordered a Nescafe coffee. What a European!
After breakfast we hit the streets, exploring the churches of Agios Mihail, Tris Ierarhes, and Agios Panteleimonas.
This trio did not look as aged as the ones near the Kastro that we admired yesterday, but they were still impressive because of how ornate the decor was.
Above: Mr. W. Hale found his name on something else...
The streets along our route today were a little more spectacular. Everything looked rustic and picturesque, from alley cats to clotheslines...
...and bougainvillea to busted doors.
Making our way to the shopping district again, we found an antiques store with an old distinctive door knocker for sale. It was the type we'd seen a-DOOR-ning(!) many doors in Greece: a brass hand holding a ball is lifted to knock on the adjoining door plate. It was cool.
See above. "What knockers!"
We subsequently also bought ourselves a small hand-made icon from Mt. Athos, the legendary home to ancient monasteries with monks that support themselves with these cultural gems. Annie and I liked one of the Panaghia Glykophilousa, or "Virgin of Tenderness." It's an image of Mary kissing her newborn baby Jesus.
Above: Similar to ours, but not of this scale or museum quality.
It was decided after these two purchases that we needed to leave the town before buying more, so we drove to nearby Glistera, which was supposed to be a ritzy area where Annie could see more landmarks from the Mama Mia filming. However, it was major flop--the beach, that is, not the movie.
Above: Some archway that Merryl Streep walked through in the movie, or something.
The remainder of daylight was spent back at Kastani Beach, where we laid out on chairs, swam, snorkeled, drank frappés and then beers at sunset. We did a whole lot of nothing, and it was wonderful.
While driving through Glossa on our way home to shower, we saw the locals carrying out an annual June tradition of wreath-burning and fire-jumping. We had been told the wreaths were placed above doorways in May, though we weren't sure if they represented anything or were just good luck tokens after Easter.
It was customary for the village kids to collect them in June to burn in a pile, then jump over the flames.
I imagine it was for good luck, good entertainment, or merely pride. Regardless, it was an interesting event to watch. Many adults--some of them quite spry for their heft--even joined in the leaping revelry.
Above: Tradition.
Due to our fascinating pause for anthropology's sake, we were too late for dinner at our favorite restaurant in Glossa. We went home for a leisurely shower, then we descended one last time to Café Aramis for some cheesy, greasy pasta and good conversation with Ismene. She had been very kind and generous towards us(over our many visits she doled out postcards, Skopelos shot glasses, and priceless island recommendations), so we were sad to flit away in the morning. Partings! Such sweet sorrow, as the Bard once wrote.
Skopelos Day 4 (June 23) Album:
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| Skopelos: June 23, 2011 |
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Location:Skopelos Island, Sporades, Greece
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