We packed and ate our last breakfast downstairs, quietly ruminating over our worries for Mr. Hale's operation, not due for several more hours. Lisa kindly wrote us another train pass so we could exit the Black Forest for free. After settling our tab and collecting our luggage from the room, we had much less time than expected to catch our train. Our goodbyes to Lisa, Michael, and Max were unfortunately brief--though Lisa had enough time to shove a packed lunch our way for the train. Awesome!
After a short sprint-waddle with our bags to the Schiltach-Mitte station, we boarded our train to Freudenstadt. From there, we had to transfer to a Stuttgart-bound train, and then another from there to Munich.
The München Hauptbahnhof was large and bustling when we arrived, though it was one of the cleanest terminals we'd encountered thus far. From there, we hiked about ten minutes west to our new accommodations at the Four Points by Sheraton. My old roommate Andrew Leventhal had kindly hooked us up there as a wedding present, so we were amused to find the complimentary champagne in our room that congratulated "Mr. & Mrs. Leventhal." Whatever.
After unpacking and grabbing a much-needed shower, we walked two blocks to a place I spied on Trip Advisor as a more genuine Bavarian beer hall experience. It was called the Augustiner Braustuben, which was the home to the Augustiner brewery in addition to serving as bar/restaurant.
I got excited as soon as we entered. The place was huge, and the main beer hall was nearly packed with long picnic-type wooden tables occupied by lederhosen-clad bavarians, normal-dressed Germans, and the occasional gaggle of tourists. We were very pleased to see that the hall was mostly comprised of locals; this most likely being the case because the brewery is over a mile or so from the center of town where most Munich attractions are located.
We were shortly seated with some older German guys, who immediately included us in conversation despite the fact only one of them spoke passable English. None of them had plates on the table, so I think they were all just there to drink, which is admirable.
When our waitress arrived, I tried to restrain a giddy smile as I requested two maß beers--these were the liter size glass mugs famously found all over Munich, especially during Oktoberfest.
When our drinks arrived, the old men were impressed by Annie drinking a liter beer, even though she had to use both hands. They also helped recommend good meals to try. We ordered a couple dishes that looked like local Bavarian fare, then sat back to enjoy the atmosphere.
Right then, two members of an oompah band (trombone, tuba) entered the beer hall hooting and hollering, then hopped up on the end of our bench and got the whole room clapping and cheering. They played a few tunes, all of which must have been traditional songs because many Germans around us (in questionable states of sobriety) sang along to the tunes.
At last, our food arrived(and I ordered another beer), and it did not disappoint. We ate roast pork, meatball, Maultaschen, and potato dumpling, all covered with gravy. A very good--if fattening--meal. The older dude next to Annie offered to eat the rind of her pork for her. What a sweetheart.
Above: "I can finish your beer for you, too!"
Annie was receiving occasional updates from her mom during the meal, so we were gradually relaxing as we learned Mr. Hale's operation proceeded well. He had told Annie last night not to worry, and that we needed to go have a beer for him--Mission Accomplished. You're welcome, sir!
"This liter's for you, Dad!"
We walked home very pleased with our first beer hall experience, and relieved by good news from home. This, we hoped, would set a solid tone for our remaining time in Germany.
Munich July 15 Album:
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| Munich: July 15, 2011 |
Location:Schiltach to Munich, Germany
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